How we make jewellery

Making a diamond set wedding ring We start with a length of 18 carat gold bar approximately 6mm square.
The ends of the bar are then rolled out to make them thinner and flatter. This minimises the gold loss that occurs when shaping the ring in the filing process.
The gold is then bent into a circle. You will notice now that the thicker section is opposite the join. This section has been made to the correct thickness for the height of the ring above the finger where the diamonds will be set. The thinner section being the back of the band.
The join is then soldered using 18ct gold alloy solder. Once joined the ring is then shaped into a perfect circle inside, filed flat on the sides and edges. A groove is cut in the top of the band where the diamonds will be set. The ring is then polished prior to being set with the diamonds.
The diamonds are set in place using great skill. A rim is cut under the each edge of the groove and the diamond placed in these rims. The gold above the rim is then pushed down to hold the diamond firmly in place. The skill of the setter is required to ensure the diamonds are set straight and close to each other. Once set the ring is then given a final polish.

Making a diamond engagement ring

In this ring we start with 5 larger diamonds and 6 small diamonds. One of the diamonds is larger than the rest and will be the centrepiece of the ring.

Using 18 carat white gold we forge cylinders which are the height we want the ring to be above the finger and the correct size to hold the diamonds.

The white gold cylinders are then tapered so that when they fit together they follow the contour of the finger. The cylinders are made to size where the diamonds sits on top and covers about half of the wall thickness. To set the diamonds, the top of the cylinder is burred out so that the diamond sits down into the cylinder leaving a rim around the edge. This rim is then pushed over the edge of the stone to hold it firmly in place.

All of the diamond settings are joined in a line and then added to the yellow gold band.

Once all of the pieces have been joined together the diamonds are set in place and the ring polished ready for the customer to wear.