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​Making a diamond set wedding ring


We start with a length of 18 carat gold bar approximately 6mm square.

The ends of the bar are then rolled out to make them thinner and flatter. This minimises the gold loss that occurs when shaping the ring in the filing process.

The gold is then bent into a circle. You will notice now that the thicker section is opposite the join. This section has been made to the correct thickness for the height of the ring above the finger where the diamonds will be set. The thinner section being the back of the band.

The join is then soldered using 18ct gold alloy solder. Once joined the ring is then shaped into a perfect circle inside, filed flat on the sides and edges. A groove is cut in the top of the band where the diamonds will be set. The ring is then polished prior to being set with the diamonds.

The diamonds are set in place using great skill. A rim is cut under the each edge of the groove and the diamond placed in these rims. The gold above the rim is then pushed down to hold the diamond firmly in place. The skill of the setter is required to ensure the diamonds are set straight and close to each other. Once set the ring is then given a final polish.


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